In Madeira, Christian Christmas celebrations start early. Since the 15th of December the childbirth masses or “missas do parto” are celebrated every day until the 23rd of December before sunrise.

Like most of the parishes, Nossa Senhora da Conceição in Lombada dos Esmeraldos, Ponta do Sol, still revive this ancient tradition. Not even the cold or rain of these winter mornings dissuades the devoted that always join this “novenas”.

On the way to the church, people drink hot coffee and sugar cane rum with honey, to avoid cold and sleepiness, invading the streets with Christmas carols and musical instruments like drums, “castanholas” or accordions that wake up the ones who are still asleep. After mass, people join together breathing Christmas spirit, on the square between the chapel and Esmeraldo’s mannor house, singing, dancing and eating honey cake and cookies, just before going to work.

Photos by Tânia Pestana